10 contemporary practitioners

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                                                The Great Gatsby

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Catherine Martin and Miuccia Prada were behind the wardrobe and worked closely together to create pieces with "the European flair that was emerging amongst the aristocratic East Coast crowds in the 1920s.

Costume historians of the period, however, said that the costumes were not authentic, but instead modernized the 1920s-era fashions to look more like modern fashions. Most prominently, the women were clothed to emphasize their breasts, such as Daisy's push-up bra, in contrast to the flat-chested fashions of the era. While the book was set in 1922, the movie included fashions from the entire decade of the 1920s and even the 1930s. Many of the fashions from archives were concepts from runways and fashion magazines that were never worn by women in real life. Martin says that she took the styles of the 1920s and made them sexier, and was trying to interpret 1920s styles for a modern audience. Alice Jurow, of the Art Deco Society of California, said that she loved the movie, but most of their members prefer more period-perfect films. The men's costumes were more authentic, except that the pants were too tight.

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Catherine Martin

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Catherine Martin (born 26 January 1965) is an Australian costume designerproduction designerset designer, and film producer. She has won two Academy Awards for Moulin Rouge. In 2002 and another two for The Great Gatsby in 2014. Having won four Oscars, she is the most awarded Australian in Oscar history, having overtaken 1950s costume designer Orry-Kelly.

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costume sketches for Gatsby's leading ladies

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Catherine Martin has won the best costume design and the best art direction for Moulin Rouge.

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Simon Costin

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Simon Costin is an internationally respected art director and set designer renowned for the conceptually ambitious nature his editorial and catwalk designs. He has collaborated extensively with Alexander McQueen both on McQueen's own line and Givenchy ready-to-wear and haute couture shows. Costin's client list includes Hermès, Lanvin, Kim Jones, Maison Martin Margiela, Alice Temperley, Stella McCartney and Luella Bartley. Costin currently works with Gareth Pugh as his set designer and has designed Pugh's last eight shows both in London and Paris. He has been a long-term collaborator with Tim Walker on his fashion shoots. Costin's work has been displayed in many exhibitions, at venues as diverse as a forest in Argyll, the ICA in London and The Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York.

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Far, Far From Land

set design by Simon Costin

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                Sunday Times Style

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Stephen Jones

Stephen Jones OBE (born 1957) is a leading British milliner based in London, who is considered one of the world's most radical and important milliners of the late 20th and early 21st centuries.[1] He is also one of the most prolific, having created hats for the catwalk shows of many leading couturiers and fashion designers, such as John Galliano at Dior and Vivienne Westwood.[2] His work is known for its inventiveness and the high level of technical expertise with which he realises his ideas.[3] Jones co-curated the 2009 exhibition Hats: An Anthology for the Victoria and Albert Museum.

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Natalia Brilli

Natalia Brilli is an accesory designer based in Paris. Belgium-born, Brilli initially studied costume and set design at the school of La Cambre in Brussels. In 2003 she joined the Institut Français de la Mode (IFM) in Paris to study a degree in Fashion Design. In 2004 she launched her design label with a first collection of sautoirs and leather cameos, stocked by stores such as Maria Luisa, Browns and Barneys. Her brand has developed to include oversized pearl sautoir necklaces, simple or mutli-tier, adorned with exaggerated bows and vintage cameos that are encased with leather and suede. Also in 2004, Brilli joined Rochas as head accessories designer under the direction of Oliver Theyskens. Her collection also won her the A.N.D.A.M. award in 2006.

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Lesia Paramonova

 

Lesia Paramonova is a young fashion designer based in Moscow, Russia. Her clothing and accessories brand LES’ are mostly inspired by forest and nature. The brand name is a play on Russian words: it consists of the designer’s name and also her main inspiration (LES' translates as forest).

 

LES’ was concieved March 2012 when Paramonova won PREVIEW, a young designers award set up by MasterCard and cult Russian website LookAtMe.ru. As the main prize the designer got to show her collection as part of Cycles&Seasons Fashion Week by MasterCard. Her first collection, created during her third year at university, was lauded in the foreign press, including CR Fashion Book, Italian Vogue and Grazia and American Marie Claire, and created a buzz in fashion blogs. Susie Bubble dedicated two posts to LES’, was photographed by streetstyle photographers in one of the label's floral looks while visiting the Olympic Games in London.

 

Paramonova has created two capsule collections for Moscow boutiques. She has also collaborated with Kiehl’s. LES' stockists include Aizel, Vesna and Parisienne, showrooms Click Boutique andAir in Moscow; and S*uce shop in Dubai.

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Gareth Pugh

Gareth Pugh is a fashion designer who has received global recognition for both his outlandish clubwear and his novel approach to redefining modern luxury.Pugh's designs such as his famous inflated balloon garments are inspired by shape, proportion and process. He has shown at London Fashion Week as part of Fashion East and was awarded New Generation sponsorship to show in Autumn/Winter 2006. Pugh has collaborated with magazines including Arena Homme+, Self Service, CENT, i-D and Dazed & Confused. In 2004, Pugh’s ‘inflatable creatable’ installation was chosen as the sculptural centre piece for a Dazed & Confused exhibition showcasing designers including Stella McCartney, D&G and Hussein Chalayan. Pugh also regularly works with Judy Blame, who designs exclusive jewellery pieces to accompany his collections.In 2008, Pugh received the ANDAM prize, and began to show in Paris from the S/S 2009 season. Pugh’s designs are stocked in Side by Side in Japan, Seven and Opening Ceremony in New York, and in London by Browns and Dover Street.

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Michelle Lowe-Holder

 

Born in Oshawa, Ontario, Canada Michelle Lowe-Holder completed a BFA Honours in fashion design at Pratt Institute in New York. Lowe-Holder worked for several years in the industry before returning to study an MA in Knitwear at Central St. Martins, London.

 

The Michelle Lowe-Holder own label clothing collection was exhibited in Browns 2001. The BFC awarded Lowe-Holder New Gen sponsorships with on- schedule catwalk shows soon after.

 

After ten years of designing and producing womenswear collections, including a collaboration with TOPSHOP, the MLH brand took a change of direction. In 2009 London College of Fashion and the College of Sustainable Fashion invited Lowe-Holder to attend a mentoring program to help develop a more sustainable approach. The A/W 10 Collection RIBBON RECLAIM became the first MLH accessories only collection with an eco-hybrid core.  


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Shona Heath

 

Shona Heath is an art director and set designer. Since graduating from Fashion Design at Brighton University in 1997, her work has encompassed prop-building, painting, paper-sculpting, Photography, Film making art-directing and more. Her editorial credits vary from American, British and Italian Vogue, Casa Vogue, L'Uomo Vogue to Another Magazine, Dazed & Confused, Mixte, 10 and Big Magazine as well as contributing various short films and installations for SHOWstudio. Advertising credits include Armani, Cacharel, Donna Karan, Harvey Nichols, Margaret Howell and Tiffany. She has worked on fashion sets for Emma Cook, Topshop, and Julie Verhoeven, presentations for Marni, Rebecca Taylor and the Vogue Christmas Party.

 

Heath's recent projects have included high-profile window displays for Dior, advertising shots and a limited edition Art Book for Rebecca Taylor, and campaigns for Das in 2004 and 2005. Her strong sense of style is inherently evident throughout, mixing contemporary and vintage elements with a timeless sensibility. Other projects involve T-shirt designs for Clements Ribeiro, packaging and fabric designs for Anne Taylor and various album covers.

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John Galliano

John Galliano is a groundbreaking fashion designer, acclaimed for his fusion of romantic historicism with extraordinary technical skills and progressive aesthetics. Born in 1960 in Gibraltar, Galliano came to fame through his graduate collection for Central St. Martin's College of Art and Design, 'Les Incroyables', in 1984, which announced the designer's signature strategy of reviving the past whilst heralding in the new. The collection was famously bought in its entirety by Joan Burstein, the owner of Browns boutique in London and displayed in its front windows: an unprecedented and prestigious endorsement. Galliano set up his own label in that year with the immensely successful 'Ludic Games' collection and he enjoyed consistent critical acclaim throughout the decade, championed in particular by fashion editor Anna Wintour, in spite of looming financial pressures.

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Sharon Dowsett

Sharon Dowsett is a leading international make-up artist, who was awarded British Make-up Artist of the Year in 2002. From catwalk beauty to advertising and editorial, she has worked with some of the world's top photographers and style publications. She is one of the key speakers presenting M.A.C. Master Classes around the world for professional make-up artists. I-Shadow Ltd, the company she set up to explore and encourage new methods and collaborations, offers make-up artistry consultancy and education.

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